These pieces there then ripped to final width (both edges) on the table saw. The final lengths of 12 (jewelry box fronts and backs) and 7 (sides) were then cut on the miter saw using a Forrest ChopMaster blade that leaves a mirror-like cut.On this device, one template is used to cut the tails with a dovetail cutter and the other template is used to cut the pins with a straight spiral cutter. Setup takes a bit of time and wastes some timber so it is advisable to have some cheap pieces available of the same sizes and thickness as the final wood species. Table adjustments have to be made on the in/out axis to get the right depth of cut which is then locked in position.
A detailed manual is incorporated with the Multi-Router, so I wont bother to repeat that here. I’ll just say that the work piece is attached into a fixed position on the table and the left/right and up/down axes are left to float unimpeded while the stylus tracks each template. Trial and error will in time give you a flawless fit in your scrap pieces and, once that has been accomplished, you can commence production on the final work pieces. Tails can be cut on both ends of the jewelry box sides and pins on both ends of the front and back pieces or vice versa, if you prefer.Now, its back to the table saw to cut the grooves for the plywood floor.
You must terminate your cuts just short of going through the ends of the work pieces. Mark pencil lines on the table saw table to demonstrate to you where to start and where to terminate. The idea is to lower the work piece into the saw blade which is set to 1/8 above the table. When the work piece hits the table, it should be just a bit ahead of the front stop line. Pull the work piece back to the stop line before pushing it forward to the rear stop line. Stop the saw before lifting each work piece off the blade for reasons of safety.The finished, dovetailed jewelry box pieces are pushed together with a bit of Titebond glue while inserting the plywood bottom into 1/8 pre-cut groove. Clamp the box square for 45 minutes.Box tops can be made oversize, sanded to 3/8 @ 220 grit and then ripped to fit the jewelry boxes. The tops can be either overlay with hinges or inset with brass pins drilled into the back corners.
Once you have determined the final sizes of the top, you should be able to safely fit all of the boxes due to the accuracy of your Multi-Router-made boxes. I like to rout all corners of the box and top with a 1/8 round-over bit before sanding.The jewelry boxes and tops should be sanded to at least 220 grit with a random orbital sander and by hand before finishing. I chose to spray on a gloss finish (catalyzed varnish). You may prefer something else. If you are going to spray, Id like to propose that you make yourself a lazy Susan (hardware parts available from Woodworker’s Supply).
https://www.huaximould.com/product/table-mould/
A detailed manual is incorporated with the Multi-Router, so I wont bother to repeat that here. I’ll just say that the work piece is attached into a fixed position on the table and the left/right and up/down axes are left to float unimpeded while the stylus tracks each template. Trial and error will in time give you a flawless fit in your scrap pieces and, once that has been accomplished, you can commence production on the final work pieces. Tails can be cut on both ends of the jewelry box sides and pins on both ends of the front and back pieces or vice versa, if you prefer.Now, its back to the table saw to cut the grooves for the plywood floor.
You must terminate your cuts just short of going through the ends of the work pieces. Mark pencil lines on the table saw table to demonstrate to you where to start and where to terminate. The idea is to lower the work piece into the saw blade which is set to 1/8 above the table. When the work piece hits the table, it should be just a bit ahead of the front stop line. Pull the work piece back to the stop line before pushing it forward to the rear stop line. Stop the saw before lifting each work piece off the blade for reasons of safety.The finished, dovetailed jewelry box pieces are pushed together with a bit of Titebond glue while inserting the plywood bottom into 1/8 pre-cut groove. Clamp the box square for 45 minutes.Box tops can be made oversize, sanded to 3/8 @ 220 grit and then ripped to fit the jewelry boxes. The tops can be either overlay with hinges or inset with brass pins drilled into the back corners.
Once you have determined the final sizes of the top, you should be able to safely fit all of the boxes due to the accuracy of your Multi-Router-made boxes. I like to rout all corners of the box and top with a 1/8 round-over bit before sanding.The jewelry boxes and tops should be sanded to at least 220 grit with a random orbital sander and by hand before finishing. I chose to spray on a gloss finish (catalyzed varnish). You may prefer something else. If you are going to spray, Id like to propose that you make yourself a lazy Susan (hardware parts available from Woodworker’s Supply).
https://www.huaximould.com/product/table-mould/
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